The 4 ethernet ports on a router form a switch, and the yellow port connects to the ISP. This yellow port's connection is "split" so to speak, to the 4 ethernet ports and any wireless devices connected. usually the cable from the modem plugs into the yellow port, but the device you have is modem+router, so it too has 4 ethernet ports at the back.
It comes in both full-size and TKL versions, in clear and green switches. Clears are a heavier tactile switch and greens are a heavier clicky switch. Neither are remotely light switches, but the clears at least aren't as bad as they might sound at first. I too find I make a lot more mistakes on Linear switches, especially light ones. I have both. I prefer red slightly for SC2. Red is linear force throughout the press. Brown has a slight resistance halfway through the press and suddenly less resistance afterwards. Red is noticeably lighter to press. Sound is about the same. Blue is where it sounds different with a metallic click. Scratchiness: Matcha Green < Gat Black KS-3 (Full Nylon) < Gat Full Milky Yellow. If you like and use Cherry Profile keycap and you have a North facing LED keyboard. The Akko CS Matcha Green switches will be compatible and will not have Switch's housing interference with this setup. Both switches are scratchy when unlubed. Long story, when mechanical keyboards started getting popular I bought a cheap one gith gateron blues, a 3blue something with soldered switches, when I got tired of the clicky switches, I got a wormier k66 with gat yellows and Ive been using it for a couple years, but wanted to try modding the old keyboard (and it has a numpad that the k66 doesnt and I can of like them), adding foam, tape 3.4mm. Actuation Force. 45g. Lifespan. 80m clicks. 50m clicks. The Razer Yellow switch and Cherry MX Speed switch have nearly identical specs: The actuation points are the same and the full travel